tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-47527466294698678722024-03-14T07:16:11.586+01:00KeesEen blog, speciaal begonnen om de bouw en het installeren van een houten keuken te documenteren. Maar misschien komt er ook wel eens iets anders voorbij.Keeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618388647421144564noreply@blogger.comBlogger290125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752746629469867872.post-88866897122609882252016-08-10T20:36:00.002+02:002016-08-10T20:36:15.454+02:00Old stuff from the Spanish Pyrenees. IronThis time a compilation of all kinds of old iron. Door knockers, bolts, hinges, stuff like that. I don't remember which was where exactly, so, without comment. Most have interesting decorations.<br />
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<br />Keeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618388647421144564noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752746629469867872.post-1262626667610422752016-08-10T20:03:00.002+02:002016-08-10T20:03:58.175+02:00Old stuff from the Spanish Pyrenees, wood.My wife and me visited the Spanish Pyrenees for about three weeks, trekking around, walking in the mountains and visiting a bunch of very old little villages and towns. In this blog I'd like to share some pictures from some wooden stuff I found down there.<br />
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First the wooden stuff, in the next blog some iron. You can click the images to enlarge them.<br />
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Always nice, wooden doors, this one in a 11th century hermit's chappel at Tella, The door itself surely isn't that old! But it fits nice in the surroundings.<br />
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Could use a paint brush... (Benasque).<br />
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A nicely carved bench in the Basilica de la Pena in Graus.<br />
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In Alquezar, also a medieval town, this decorated cabinet in the Church of Santa Maria.<br />
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In the same church a very long cabinet with plenty of drawers. It sure looked like it was made of pine. Nice decorations.<br />
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A similar cabinet in Roda de Isabona, in the Cathedral.<br />
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In the same cathedral a joined stool of "some importance".<br />
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And a detail (the armrest doesn't look very original).<br />
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Hey, staked furniture! A bench in the courtyard of the same cathedral.<br />
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In the Val de Boi, there are a couple of Romanic parish churches that are quite original yet. In one of them I found this replica of a medieval church bench.<br />
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And some typically Romanic (10th-11th century) statues of Jesus on the cross and Maria with Jesus.<br />
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<br />Keeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618388647421144564noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752746629469867872.post-20829487897190080022016-06-04T22:19:00.000+02:002016-06-04T22:19:09.670+02:00The door framesIn my last post I wrote that I started a new project, a bathroom cabinet. I didn't really introduce this new project, so here is a short intro.<br />
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I've always been smitten by the looks of the 17 century English carved chests. But I don't have any need for a chest like that. But those chests really look like they could be converted to a cabinet with small doors in the front instead of those panels. The lid doesn't need to be a lid anymore in a cabinet like that, it can be a fixed top with plenty of room for a sink, making it suitable for our bathroom.<br />
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I don't know if it is very visible in this picture but here are the drawings I am working from. (click on the picture to enlarge it)<br />
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The way I started ths project is a bit haphazard. First the bottom boards, now the doors. The doors are good to make now, so they are a reference for the size of the rest of the frontpanel. These are standard frame and panel doors, so I dressed the wood for the rails and styles. Here are a few pictures of the mortise and tenon construction proces.<br />
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Chopping out the mortises. I like to work like this. A clamp to prevent the wood from splitting, working above a leg of the bench and fixing the style in position with a holdfast. Diagonally so I can stand in line with the style to keep the chisel nicely vertical. I chop the mortise with one of my Dutch mortise chisels, allthough this one is made in Germany, way back in the 19th century.<br />
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Mortising isn't that much work, tenoning takes me more time. Here are a few little tricks. When I saw the shoulders, I like to undercut on purpose. This makes fitting the tenon easier. Especially when the inside shoulder is a bit gappy. A gap on the inside makes it much easier to get the visible outside shoulder really tight.<br />
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Oh, and another usefull little trick. My eyes are slowly but surely loosing their youthfull strength. I can't always see the knife lines very well anymore. It really helps to switch off the overhead lights and only work with light from the side, which throws a dark, very visible shadow line. Hard to see in the top picture, much better in the picture below, as far as my Iphone captures this.<br />
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I do saw the shoulders, but I split the cheeks. The grain of this cherry wood isn't very straight, but when I take small bites, the split rarely wanders in the wrong direction. I do these cheeks in 3 or 4 splits. First split to see in which direction the split is going to wander, second or third split to remove most of the wood and the last split in the marking gauge line.<br />
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And that's 3 door frames. Mortise and tenon joints done. I still need to run some grooves and cut of the horns.<br />
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<br />Keeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618388647421144564noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752746629469867872.post-38758260614114573962016-05-16T21:39:00.001+02:002016-05-16T21:39:21.023+02:00Sharpening a saw really helps!Yes yes, I know. No apologies about neglecting my blog. I am just one of these victims of Instagram (for a link, look above). But a blog is a better place to pause a bit longer on certain subjects. Anyway, after doing loads of jobs around the house, upgrading the entrance of the garage, lots of painting etc, I am back to normal woodworking. The bathroom cabinet needs to be build.<br />
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For the bottom boards of this cabinet I still had some leftover wallnut from the dining room table project. It's mostly sap wood, but perfectly suitable for something like this. One problem though, it still was one massive piece about 5 cm thick. Crosscutting in smaller sections made it more managable.<br />
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My humble workshop friends, the planer and tablesaw, helped to square these boards. Then I used the tablesaw to rip into the board's edges as far as the blade allowed. 6 cm from both sides.<br />
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That left me with 12 cm in the middle to cut away with my trusty 4 1/2 tpi rip saw. A job I have been avoiding for quite some time allready.<br />
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Well, in the end it was all half as bad. It's hard work, but goes relatively quickly. But, as the title sais, it really helps to sharpen your saw first! I did the first board without resharpening the saw. It has been used quite a lot but still didn't seem too bad. It took me almost 20 minutes.<br />
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Then I decided to give the saw a quick once-over. A light jointing, then filing the teeth until they were razor sharp again.<br />
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The next board went quite a bit quicker. I cut the time in two, only 10 minutes for a 54 cm long, 12 cm deep resaw in wallnut! Not bad.<br />
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The last board is a little narrower and took even less time of course. So, all in all, in less then two hour I was through the entire stack, including extended tea breaks and sharpening the saw. I do feel my arms though!<br />
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A board split open and the sawdust on the workbench<br />
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And all the boards together, ready for further processing.<br />
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<br />Keeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618388647421144564noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752746629469867872.post-5177212951231112112016-03-23T13:37:00.001+01:002016-03-23T13:37:23.350+01:00Making strike knob buttonsOn old English planes, especially the longer ones, you often find a strike knob on the front part of the stock, made from wood. On Dutch planes you find similar strike buttons, but they are invariably made from steel. I had an old, worn out plane, and I sacrificed it to get hold of the button so I could replicate it. Here is how I go about making them.<br />
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First on the lathe I turn a spike-like shape, but still in the round. I don't turn to a point, that comes later.<br />
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Then I use a large bastard file to create the flats, so the result goes from round to square. Still in the lathe, not rotating of course! The four jaw chuck gives a nice visual to make the square as square as possible, allthough I don't pretent it turns out perfectly. Counting file strokes helps to keep everything more or less symetric. First I file the straight part.<br />
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And then I file the tapered part. this also brings the spike to a point. When you don't leave enough material when turning, this step will strongly shorten the spike.<br />
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Then I turn it around in the chuck and shape the head. Rough shape with the lathe tools, then refining the shape with a file. (a sacrificial washer behind the head to protect the chuck).<br />
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When I am happy with the shape I bring it to the vise and use a hammer to give the head a hammer finish. Which means hammering the surface to create small facets all around.<br />
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And that's one finished strike button. After this I will heat it up with a propane torch to cherry red and let it cool slowly to give it a nice black color. Finish with linseed oil.<br />
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Here is a strike button on the front of my new jointer plane. You hit it to retract the blade or you hit it very hard to loosen the wedge.<br />
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<br />Keeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618388647421144564noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752746629469867872.post-73706199034478053022016-03-06T09:55:00.001+01:002016-03-06T09:55:13.518+01:00The smoother is finished!<br />
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Making the coffin shape wasn't very difficult. Cut the corners with a ripsaw, smooth the curve with a chisel and a block plane and finish with a scraper. More difficult were the chamfers on this rounded shape. I really strugled. I'm also not too happy with the round corners at the rear of th eplane, they are not very well defined, a bit too much sandpaper!<br />
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But the plane works very well!<br />
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I must reduce the camber a little bit, story of my life...<br />
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Today I started with the next plane, a tryplane. First I did the metal work, a 2 1/4" blade for the tryplane and a 2 1/2" for a jointer plane. It was the usual hard work to get everything flat and coplanar, but I succeeded in the end. Can't get my nails clean anymore.<br />
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And I cut into this billet of beech to find some wood in between the end checks on one side and the worm holes on the other side. I didn't succeed entirely, I will have to hide two wormholes somehow later on.<br />
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<br />Keeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618388647421144564noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752746629469867872.post-78257854495333271642016-02-29T21:08:00.000+01:002016-02-29T21:08:04.987+01:00Tuning the smootherToday I got around finally to work on the smoother again. First problem to tackle were problems with the feeding of the shavings through the mouth of the plane. Better said, no shavings actually <u>wanted</u> to feed through the mouth. The plane clogged immediately with the shaving wrinkling up like an accordeon between capiron and wear of the plane.<br />
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It took some itterations to fix the problem. First I polished the edge of the capiron, making sure there was absolutely no burr left on the edge. The fit between capiron an cutting blade is very good, so no problem there,<br />
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Next was the wear, There still were some rough spots, so I polished everything up as good as possible. This of course opened up the mouth a bit more. At the end the mouth was around 1mm, starting to get rather large. With the capiron set further from the edge the plane now worked very well. But with the cap set close to the edge, still no joy!<br />
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I decided to compare with another wooden smoother, a Nooitgedagt. This one has a wear angle of 80 degrees, while mine was 75. So, another round with the chisel, and this finally did the trick.<br />
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Thick shavings, thin shavings, doesn't matter, it feeds through the mouth effortlessly. So the mouth is a little wider then first intended, but I'd rather have a plane working correctly then a theroretical perfect design.<br />
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Actually, the plane is now very much like the smoothing plane in the Seaton Chest. That one has a mouth of 0.9mm (calculated from the descriptions) and a wear angle of 89 degrees (almost vertical). So I feel in good company.<br />
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Tight mouths and a capiron set close to the edge is a troublesome combination in a wooden plane.<br />
<br />Keeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618388647421144564noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752746629469867872.post-13041858407060452172016-02-21T20:55:00.000+01:002016-02-21T20:55:07.086+01:00The smootherThis weekend I started the build of a typical English coffin smoother. This one has to get a nice tight mouth! So I advanced with the utmost care!<br />
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Some tips. First one, I drill the mouth first under the drillpress. This time I aimed the drill at almost the same angle as the wear. Somehow that makes creating this thin narrow mortise a lot easier. This was a tip from Stewie from Australia and Steve Voigt from the US. Also important was to use a very sharp chisel to cut this mortise. That prevents any unwanted breakout. Finally it was usefull to use the float as soon as possible. After I sharpened the only Lie Nielsen float I have, it turned into a very capable tool.<br />
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Another area, cutting the abuments. Here is a picture of the setup I use.<br />
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The spacer is carefully fitted so it sits tight against the wear. It is helpfull to wedge it in place, makes for a more steady surface. Of course check if everything is square before commencing with the saw. It seems that I am slowly getting on good terms with my no-set abutment saw. It is just a piece of old sawblade on a handle. I use wax to reduce the friction in the slot. Of course, the abutment ends in the wear in a double iron plane, so it is not possible to saw through and through. But it is remarkable how much you can work the tip of the saw into the wood.<br />
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The rest is chisseling and the float is helpfull here too.<br />
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And this is where I am now. The blade just barely touches the wear, so I still have room to open it up a little. I think I'll shoot for a mouth about 0.5 mm wide, which is fine for a double iron plane.<br />
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<br />Keeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618388647421144564noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752746629469867872.post-32436591697924428482016-02-20T18:08:00.001+01:002016-02-20T18:08:15.078+01:00Wooden plane tuning tricksSome tricks to get a wooden plane up and running. Hardly my tricks, but usefull nonetheless.<br />
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A good working wooden plane needs:<br />
- a flat sole.<br />
- a well bedded iron.<br />
- tight fitting wedge.<br />
And a sharp edge of course.<br />
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The flat sole is not so difficult. I get close by planing with another plane. Very close, but never really close enough. So I lap the plane on some 120 grit sandpaper glued to a piece of thick glass. This goes very quickly, it's not a metal plane after all, so check often.<br />
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The bedding of the iron is checked with oil smeared on the backside of the iron. You can also use candle sooth, but oil is easy. Insert the oiled blade carefully in the blade, tighten the wedge and tap the iron downwards a little. Then remove everything again and have a look at the oil spots on the bed of the plane. You are looking for a good fit along the bottom and some touch points at the top. The bottom is most important. The middle should ideally not touch at all. I use a scraper to remove wood where I don't want it.<br />
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This is a patern I am very happy with.<br />
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And then the wedge. The fingers should be tight, especially at the bottom and at the top. Again, the bottom is more important. And they should fit tight on both sides equally otherwise the plane doesn't adjust straight. I check this with a very thin feeler gauge.<br />
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And then there were two jack planes. A larger 16" one with a 2 1/8" iron. And this one is 14" with a 2" iron. Both sharpened with a camber, the small one with more camber then the larger one.<br />
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<br />Keeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618388647421144564noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752746629469867872.post-74188668299267691802016-02-14T21:04:00.000+01:002016-02-14T21:04:00.235+01:00Making a wedgeThe first jack plane is soaking in linseed oil. On to the next one. I am now finishing the<a href="http://seekelot.blogspot.nl/2016/01/first-plane-fail.html" target="_blank"> failed attempt </a>of two weeks ago, the one where I mortised too much to the side and damaged the area of the abutments. Well, I got myself a wider iron so I could move the mortise a bit to the side, so to speak. The blank was wide enough, so no problems in the overall width of the plane.<br />
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Well, the rest is the same as the first jack plane. Practice helps, everything goes a little quicker now. I got a nice photo sequence of making the wedge, so here it is.<br />
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First I make a paper template, fitted to the situation at hand. I use that template to mark the piece of wood.<br />
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I cut the wedge angle with a handsaw. This is so much easier and so much safer then the tablesaw!<br />
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Cutting the wedge fingers with a bow saw.<br />
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These capirons have a nice bulbous brass nut. Very decorative, but you need to make room for that in the backside of the wedge. A job for the gouges. It doesn't need to be terribly precise.<br />
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Now the wedge can be fitted into the plane and the fit can be fine tuned. First thing to watch for is a tight fit in the width, It should glide in rather smoothly, but the tips of the fingers should press to the sides of the abutment mortise to avoid a shaving trap. Next is fitting the wedge shape. That is a matter of fitting, looking where I need to take off a shaving of wood, etc. I use a very thin feeler gauge to feel where the fit is still lacking. Again, it should be tightest down at the finger tips.<br />
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And this is how it looks in the plane, nice and tight.<br />
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<br />Keeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618388647421144564noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752746629469867872.post-6570733136143349162016-02-11T21:53:00.000+01:002016-02-11T21:53:18.531+01:00Jack plane mostly finishedNo pictures of the build. It was all a bit too exciting. Making the chamfers, the gouge cuts, the eyes, everything is very visible, and easy to make all crooked and skewed and ugly.<br />
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First thing after finishing the tote was making the mortise for the tote, No picture of that either. It isn't so spectaculair of course. I drilled a bunch of holes and removed the rest with a chisel. At the round end I used a carving gouge. Glued the tote with hot hide glue and used a scraper to get everything blend in nicely.<br />
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Well, here she is. No finish yet, that's a nice little job for tomorrow.<br />
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And a trial run on some nasty beech. Thick, very thick shavings!<br />
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<br />Keeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618388647421144564noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752746629469867872.post-26761669925930819992016-02-08T21:14:00.000+01:002016-02-08T21:14:38.918+01:00Jack plane continuedLast weekend I did quite a bit of work on this jackplane. Calculations of the output of professional planemakers a 200 years ago show that they could make 3-5 planes a day (probably depending on the type of planes and the amount of power tools they had available). Well, I still need to practice a little bit to reach that goal! And I still make many errors.<br />
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While making the mortise, it seems that every little mistake, every stray chisel strike, ends up in a wider mouth. The mouth is now about 3-4 mm wide, good enough for a jack plane, but because I tried very hard to keep it in check, it is a little dissapointing.<br />
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Here's a picture into the throat of the plane after cutting the abutments (saw and chisel work).<br />
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Next up was making and fitting the wedge. I got myself some nice quartersawn wood. It was a bit of a puzzle how I could cut the wedge on the table saw. In the end I think it would have been a lot easier and safer to do it with a handsaw! Here you can see how the fingers of the wedge fit nice and tight all the way down. I marked where the hump of the capiron is with a red permant marker, so I could mark the wedge fingers from there with a pencil. That is where they end up, making them longer would only create a shaving trap.<br />
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A very nice little job is making the handle. I have of course some experience in handle making after finishing a couple of saws. As a template I used a picture of some old English saw I found on the internet. Draw it on the wood and used forstner bits in the corners. Then cutting the rest with a bowsaw.<br />
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Next up is squaring the blanc with rasps. I never reach total 100% squareness, but close is good enough in this instance.<br />
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And then, marking the contours with pencil and start shaping with rasps and a scraper. I want to avoid sandpaper as much as possible in this plane build, so after scraping I grabbed a piece of wood from the bin and burnished the wood. It happens to be an old piece of pine with a heavy wax coat and I think I rubbed some of that wax on the wood too. It took a nice shine very quickly. I really like this finish. It certainly is not perfect, you can still see contours of the scraper work.<br />
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I hope to finish this plane this week.<br />
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Keeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618388647421144564noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752746629469867872.post-50580006821009854832016-02-03T13:45:00.000+01:002016-02-03T13:45:37.616+01:00Some small finishing nails.Some? How about a lifetime supply?<br />
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Small stuff. Most are square nails, 1.5 and 2 cm short. I should have had these when I was making the drawers in the medicine cabinet. But who knows what other small stuff I am going to make.<br />
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<br />Keeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618388647421144564noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752746629469867872.post-79964986819179115382016-01-31T22:22:00.000+01:002016-01-31T22:22:17.679+01:00New try to make a jack planeThis time I went along with a lot more care. First I drilled down into the mortise with a forstner bit under the drill press. Then I started chiseling. The large hole makes the mortising a lot easier. It also makes it more precise. I did make sure to stay well within the layout lines this time, better to pair the sides later on.<br />
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Before continueing I made sure everything looked nice and square, just taking my time.<br />
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Then I put it under the drillpress again for the mouth. A simple setup. This helps to drill in the right direction and to drill straight! But before drilling I first marked out the outlines of the mouth with a chisel to avoid splintering.<br />
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After drilling it's chiseling again. From the bottom, from the top. This is kind of difficult work due to the lack of space. But I got there slowly. After cleaning up al corners this is where I'm at. The bed doesn't look as nice as in the first plane, more work for later.<br />
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I did have a mishap. Despite taking care a small splinter broke free from the mouth. No idea why, but I suspect this wood isn't the best. It is a little spalty here and there. Luckily I say to myself again, It's just a jack plane.<br />
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<br />Keeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618388647421144564noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752746629469867872.post-38011994170567748132016-01-30T21:37:00.000+01:002016-01-30T21:37:37.495+01:00First plane: FailNobody wished me luck. So that's probably the reason why I failed. I made about 3 critical mistakes, one is rather uncorrectable.<br />
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When drilling from the mouth up I stupidly didn't border the mouth with chisel strikes first. The result: splintering. I also touched with the drill chuck, resulting in a dimple in the sole. Both these caused an increase in mouth size. Not a critical failure in a jack plane, more cosmetic. The drilling also looked like a drunk had speared through the plane, I had to raise the wear angle to 90 degrees to get rid of all the drillbit damage.<br />
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In the picture you can see the damage around the mouth from carelessness.<br />
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But the deal breaking error happened during morising the mouth. The chisel wandered way too much to the outside and cut away too much in the area where the abutments are supposed to be. Easy to see the gap under to the wooden wedge template. I don't think I can save this, the hollow is just too much.<br />
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So, today I prepared another beech blank. My beech is really very close to final size, so I prepare it with handplanes. You can be a lot more carefull with a handplane then with the planer/thicknesser.<br />
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Checking with winding sticks.<br />
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I also made a "new" abutment saw today. I used a piece from an old panel saw, cut with the angle grinder and a thin cut off blade. Stick it in a piece of ash and shape it for comfort. The blade is attached with some M3 nuts and screws. All very simple. Removed all the set and sharpened it up, rip cut, zero degree rake angle. I tried it in the failed plane attempt, and it works very well. Slow, and it likes to bind in the cut, so I need to wax the blade, but it results in a very precise cut.<br />
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And then I got another cutting blade for the new plane. This one is a little wider, so I also wanted a little wider blade. I happened to have a 57 mm (2 1/4") blade where a previous owner had ground down the sides at the cutting end to something like 55 mm width. I finished that all the way to the top and added a bit of taper, so it now runs from 55 at the bottom to 54 at the top. Lots of grinding!<br />
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And here they are, waiting for more labour. (Why does my bench always look like a warzone?)<br />
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<br />Keeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618388647421144564noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752746629469867872.post-68235707621150414842016-01-24T20:53:00.000+01:002016-01-24T20:53:03.821+01:00Oh boy, wish me luck!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Just a small in between project, a beech jack plane. I allready made at least two stupid mistakes, but I keep telling myself, it is just a jack plane...Keeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618388647421144564noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752746629469867872.post-86635549466742234672016-01-19T10:50:00.000+01:002016-01-19T10:50:02.284+01:00I'm sore!The weather was great this weekend, cold but sunny and dry. I took the opportunity to cut down the cherry boards I bought last week. That gives me space in the shop and it hopefully helps to speed the drying process along.<br />
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I like to do the crosscuts with the handsaws, but rip cuts on this scale I prefer to do with the skill saw (sorry neighbours...), It's not very precise, but that isn't neccessary yet, I still leave them oversize Handling large timbers like this is hard work. And I feel it. It's no fun when your body tells you are not fit for purpose. My back and my elbows hurt quit a bit.<br />
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I also did some resawing. Some of the 5 cm thick stuff is being resawed for quartered sticks for the door's rails and styles. I also still had some wallnut, mostly sapwood, that I resawed for the backpanels. This is kerfed from both sides on the table saw and the web in between is removed with a rip saw. This went very well.<br />
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Luckilly there isn't much tension in these wallnut boards. I have clamped them tight to each other now. Maybe I should add some spacers in between the boards?<br />
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All the wider stuff is now stacked up in a spare room in the house. I want them to be dry, so I know what they end up to be. The narrower boards for all the styles and rails aren't so critical. I made sure they are quartered or rift sawn, so that helps to keep them in shape too. They are stacked up in the shed.<br />
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I am not so sure about my wood choice yet. The boards come from three different trees. The wide ones are very nice, having an orange hue. The narrower stuff is very blond. And the thick boards I use for the legs and that I have resawn for the doors is pink. I hope everything mellows out a bit, cherry darkens very quickly in the sun.<br />
<br />Keeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618388647421144564noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752746629469867872.post-87067265739583438932016-01-16T21:34:00.002+01:002016-01-16T21:34:21.427+01:00Pictures of the medicine chestIt is now finished. I soaked it in oil and coated it with three layers of furniture wax. Hopefully that will hold up for a while.<br />
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<br />Keeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618388647421144564noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752746629469867872.post-11896170433638831692016-01-16T20:32:00.002+01:002016-01-16T20:32:07.657+01:00Start of the new project<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Doesn't everyone start their new project with a bonfire?<br />
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(Burning the offcuts, I have been sawing cherry boards all afternoon long)<br />
<br />Keeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618388647421144564noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752746629469867872.post-15499571487308363852016-01-12T11:26:00.000+01:002016-01-12T11:26:27.551+01:00New cherry boardsYesterday I visited a small sawyer in the north of The Netherlands, in Friesland to be precise. Inlands Hout they are called and they specialise in local wood, air dried. I may be a hopeless romantic, but I very much like the concept. They were very helpfull, and not overly expensive.<br />
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A carload, plenty much enough for the next project. They are around 17% now, so they will need some more time in the garage to reach equilibrium. In the evening I spent some time to draw out the various parts of what is going to be a bath room vanity (strange word for a bath room cabinet). It's also going to be loosely based on the 17th century English renaissance stuff.<br />
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<br />Keeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618388647421144564noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752746629469867872.post-61151469853833540012016-01-09T22:45:00.001+01:002016-01-09T22:45:18.194+01:00Installing the hardwareOn the one hand this one of the nicest jobs of the build. At the other hand it is also nerve wracking. No time for mistakes anymore, no adjusting possible. It has to fit, right of the hammer so to speak.<br />
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First a simple job, a few small drawer pulls. I actually bought these things! They are made from brass, a little antiqued, with a screw on the end which screws into the drawer front. Problem is, there is no screwdriver slot or whatever, you just use your fingers. A little trick is to pre-thread the hole with a similar screw. A big trick is to use wax on the threads! And then screw it down in one go, no hesitation otherwise it binds immediately and is impossible to nudge further down.<br />
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The second piece of hardware is the lock. I allready chopped out the mortise in the front side of the beam, so it is simply a matter of drilling the pilot holes, drive in the nails and clinch them on the inside. That ain't going nowhere! Those nails btw are made in France and are good copies of blacksmith nails. They aren't even very expensive. They have a weird blueish coating, but that is quickly removed in some vinager.<br />
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The real nerve wrecking part of the day was installing the hinges. After carefull aligning and marking everything, I screwed the butterfly part inside the door style. These are the screws <a href="http://seekelot.blogspot.nl/2015/08/making-screws.html" target="_blank">I made myself some time ago.</a> I was very anxious that they would break when putting too much stress on them. I was also very anxious that I would drill the pilot holes all the way through the style and of course I was anxious that the whole door would end up hanging upside down and inside out or something like that. But it went along rather smoothly, luckily.<br />
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The other half of the hinge was nailed from the outside of the cabinet and clinched inside, but I see I forgot to take a picture of that. So that remains a surpise for now. See you next time.<br />
<br />Keeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618388647421144564noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752746629469867872.post-11673262892000666262016-01-02T21:21:00.000+01:002016-01-02T21:21:14.542+01:00HingesIn november I started to experiment to <a href="http://seekelot.blogspot.nl/2015/11/hinges.html" target="_blank">make myself some hinges.</a> Folding a piece of sheetmetal over a form to start the right shape, fire welding the parts together and that's where I stopped. I used 2 mm steel in that example but I wasn't happy about how thick it was. So I restarted the proces with some 1.5 mm steel plate.<br />
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Fold it over the (very simple) form.<br />
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Weld them in the fire, no pictures from that, it is a bit hectic around the fire, not much time for making photo's. But here is the result, looks pretty rough still. The short pieces have been drawn out with the fin of the hammer to make a dovetail shape.<br />
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The welds certainly aren't perfect, but it is holding together well enough. The rest of the work is all taking place at the bench. Cutting with a hacksaw to define the shape of the houses.<br />
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The piece in the middel is removed with an interesting technique. First I hamer it flat on the corner of an anvil (lump of steel).<br />
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This makes room for the cold chisel to make a groove. When the groove is deep enough, a bit of wiggling breaks of this bit of steel easilly.<br />
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Then it is into the benchvise for filing and fitting.<br />
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The hinge pin is cut to length and riveted on the ends. The rest of the work is hacksawing and filing to an atractive old fashioned shape. Still need to drill some holes.<br />
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<br />Keeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618388647421144564noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752746629469867872.post-62226148069915491622015-12-28T19:57:00.001+01:002015-12-28T19:57:19.937+01:00Another neat little detailPeter Follansbee was helpfull with another little detail he writes about <a href="https://pfollansbee.wordpress.com/tag/scratch-stock/" target="_blank">On his blog.</a> You often find scratch stock "mouldings" not running the entire length of a board. Often used to flank a panel, for example in my case on the styles. A moulding running the entire length of the style, adjacent to the panel would be way to long and look out of place above and under the panel. So it fades in gradually, becomes full depth along the panel and fades out again when it reaches the other side. A picture makes it more clear I hope.<br />
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And more in detail.<br />
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I think it looks awesome! You can also see the very simple decorative pattern in the style. At first I wasn't so happy how that one turned out, but somehow it looks much better in the door, then lying flat on the bench.<br />
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Peter Follansbee is often mentioned in my blog when I wrtite about this furniture style. He certainly is one of the well knowns experts in this field. I am not too familiar with all the names in furniture history study, so there could be many more names. But his study was especially about the HOW and WHY and that makes it so usefull for us woodworkers. I don't think he ever wrote about making a spice chest like mine. Maybe it wasn't a very common item in New England back then in the 17th century? There sure are a lot of English examples.<br />
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<br />Keeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618388647421144564noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752746629469867872.post-90685119116803118472015-12-27T17:06:00.000+01:002015-12-27T17:06:18.381+01:00Finishing the doorI was determined to get the door of the cabinet finished this extra long christmas weekend. So in between the festivities, cooking dinners, entertaining the guests etc, I managed to squeak in some workshop time.<br />
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First job was chopping the lock mortise. No pictures from that job. I drilled a hole for chip clearance and then chopped until the lock fits. Not much more to say about that. The lock will be fitted from the front so the mortise looks like a big ugly hole at the moment.<br />
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Next job was fitting the panel in the frame. The panel is flat on the front (with the carvings of course), so needs to be bevelled at the back. Again, nothing special. I didn't take any pains to make it look nice and symetric, it only needs to fit. In the past this was a job often done with an axe! I am too much a coward for that, so I used a plane. I was afraid it would be very difficult to get the exact right fit, but it happens to be pretty easy. I marked the a hickness of the groove width, minus a little bit on the edges of the panel. Then beveled the panel until I reached these markings, Checked the fit and planed some more until the panel fitted the grooves completely. A quick picture of the fitting proces.<br />
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A more difficult, or better said, a more adventurous job was drawboring the mortise and tenon joints of the door. I didn't want to use glue, just pegged M&T's. This method of building furniture is thousands of years old. Basicaly it is a hole drilled through the styles where the mortise is. A similar hole is drilled in the tenon but offset towards the shoulder of the tenon. When you drive an oak peg through the holes, the tenon is pulled very tightly into the mortise, making the shoulder fit as tight as possible. You'd better look up "drawboring" to find a better description.<br />
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First came the making of the pegs, Some straight grained oak was split with an axe and then shaved to more or less the right size. I use a dowel plate to make them truely round and to just the right size. My plate is a random piece of steel with a couple of graduated holes (large to small) drilled on the drill press. Don't let anyone tell you that it needs to be made from some special wondersteel. For a hobbyist this home made version will continue to work for a very long time. I used a pencil sharpened this time to point the pegs.<br />
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Then the nerve wracking action of driving the pegs home. If the offset in the tenon hole is too much, this doesn't really work, you can't drive the peg home and you risc breaking things, the peg in the first place. Luckily this happened only once, but next time I am going to use a little less offset with 6 mm pins. The one that broke was replace by a peg in a straight through hole with a little glue to keep it in place.<br />
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Here the pegs are shown before they were cut off.<br />
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And here is the door as it will be fitted in the cabinet. Now it really starts to look like something!<br />
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<br />Keeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618388647421144564noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752746629469867872.post-66444129603652887622015-12-24T15:05:00.003+01:002015-12-24T15:05:57.488+01:00RomeLast weekend, my wife and I visited Rome for 4 days. That was one of the better city trips in my life! When you are still doubting if you should visit Rome, stop doubting and book a ticket. We booked a room through booking.com, Residenza Ave Roma on the boarder of the Tiber in the middle of the town. Heartily recommended.<br />
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Some quick Iphone shots.<br />
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The weather was brilliant. We got lucky.<br />
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Baroque churches on each and evert street corner. Not my first choice in art styles, but here they are magnificent. The St. Peter Basilica was very impressive, it's huge! Make sure you do the climb to the top of the dome too.<br />
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St. Peter himself.<br />
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<br />And yes, they know ho to use a little bit of marble.<br />
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I liked this chair in the St. Angelo castle.<br />
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Of course, the pope needs one or two small money coffers.<br />
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And of course we visited antique Rome.<br />
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It was hard to write in straight lines back then too.<br />
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Hi fellow! Thanks for the visit.<br />
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<br />Keeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618388647421144564noreply@blogger.com0